Fabulous Destinations :: Germany's Northern Realm

A few months ago I went to Germany for the first time and was blown away by what I discovered. Before going, my general impression of Deutschland wasn't exactly spectacular. Like many Americans, my perception of Germany is based largely on movies about the Holocaust and standard stereotypes- lederhosen, bratwurst, Volkswagens, and efficiency. (Apparently Lederhosen are worn largely by Bavarian men in the Alpine region of Germany and Austria; who knew?). It turns out that rather than being stiff and regimented, Germans are some of the most open, progressive, and friendly folk you're likely to meet in all of Europe.

My German journey took me to the northeast of the country, where I visited some beautiful towns and stayed at a few incredible resorts in the Mecklenburg-Vorpommern region. The area is famous for the beautiful water- and the immense amount of it! It's truly a maritime region with a long and varied coastline that's also home to a third of all lakes in Germany. I was lucky enough to spend a few magical days in the region- which was definitely not enough- before making a quick stop in Berlin on my way home. (Check back in a couple weeks for that story- Berlin is fantastic!)

For travelers looking for a great spa vacation, excellent R&R on the seaside or among rolling hills, or a beautiful alternative to a Loire Valley castle tour, this region to the north is an excellent choice. For an architectural- or historical-themed getaway that's focused as much on the future as it is in the past, Germany can't be beat.

Germany :: rich history, fantastic future

Although the history of the Germanic people dates back thousands of years and is full of prosperous, peaceful, and impressive accomplishments, unfortunately, the image of Germany has been tarnished by the events of the first half of the 20th Century. Because of this however, Germans are one of the most progressive and forward-looking people I've ever met. Having learned from their history, they'd rather move forward with optimism and vigor than dwell on the past.

This future-focused philosophy permeates society, from positive steps in human rights to architecture. Of course you'll still find incredible examples of old European architecture, vast museums in old castles, and a rich history of royal rulers, but it's gloriously mixed-up with a modernism unmatched in the rest of Europe.

For my visit, I spent most of my time in the German state of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern, a hidden gem that truly deserves to be discovered. Located in the northeast of Germany between Hamburg and Berlin, the state is home to miles of beaches, thousands of lakes, and fabulous manor homes, many of which have been turned into charming little hotels. (It's my goal to visit as many as I can in the next few years!) The region is a popular summer destination for German tourists thanks to the warm weather and great water-based activities (canoeing, kayaking, and even hydro-biking!), as well as the two UNESCO World Heritage sites in, incredible architecture, great spas, and much, much more.

What follows is my personal experience in Mecklenburg-Vorpommern. Keep in mind that I tried to do and see as much as I could in order to bring EDGE readers as much information -and variety- as possible. You'll want to tailor your trip to suit your needs, extending your stay in the towns that sound most interesting and cutting activities you don't like. For more info on the region, go to http://www.auf-nach-mv.de/

Bad Doberan

Perhaps we were a bit jet-lagged, silly, or just slow, but it took the group I was with (me included) the entire day to stop referring to the beautiful little town we stopped in as Bad Doberman. Although we all knew that there was no 'm' in the town's name, that didn't seem to stop our minds' eyes from seeing something that was more familiar to us. Needless to say, the town- and nearby luxury resort- was nothing like the sometimes surly dog; in fact, it couldn't have been more different.

The idyllic small town of Bad Doberan is just a few miles from the Baltic Coast, and gets its name from the founding of the Cistercian monastery near Althof, first mentioned in official records in 1171. After the Althof monastery was destroyed, the Doberan monastery was built on the present site, and after Duke Friedrich Franz I adopted it as his summer home, a town soon grew around it.

Today the townscape is made up largely of palaces and villas; reminders of Doberan's glamorous past as the summer home for Friedrich and other dukes. Center stage among many incredible buildings is the Doberan Minster, a Cistercian building considered by many to be the best example of gothic brickwork architecture, and the most impressive religious building on the Baltic coast. A few rulers were laid to rest here, and the building and grounds are definitely worth a stop.

Just outside the town's gates you'll find the first German seaside resort- Heiligendamm. Founded in 1793, the 'White town by the Sea' was famed for its soothing waters, relaxing spa, and beautiful, architecturally important- and diverse- buildings. Nearby you'll also find the first German horse track, built a few decades later.

Kempinski Grand Hotel Heiligendamm

The Kempinski Grand Hotel is a fabulous resort in an incredible location- and truly unique in all of Europe. As a Leading Hotels of the World- a group known for impeccable service and ultimate luxury- it's no surprise that a recent G-8 gathering took place here. (Don't let the fact that George Bush stayed here scare you away- I assure you that all negative energy has since been cleared...)

The resort is the first and oldest in Europe, and it's literally a stone's throw from incredible beaches, set in a truly idyllic setting backed by a thick green forest. The six large buildings on the hotel grounds hold not only beautiful deluxe rooms, but a gourmet restaurant, lounge, bar with terrace, and a large pool, sun deck, and spa.

Speaking of spas, the Kempinski Grand's is impressive, with everything you'd expect from a resort whose goal is "to revive the legendary reputation of Heiligendamm as the world's best sea spa." Engraved above the pillars of the Kurhaus, the only temple by the sea, are the words "Happiness receives you here after you have taken a health-giving bath" (in Latin), which seems fitting given my experience. Non-spa-goers have no need to worry however- you'll find plenty to do. Aside from the history and architecture all around, there's fabulous dining on site, nearby water sports and a nine-hole golf course, and everything else you'd expect from a top spa resort.

From glamour to gray, and back to glamour

The history surrounding the Kempinski Grand- and neighboring town- is also fascinating, and worth knowing before you visit. As the oldest German seaside resort on the Baltic coast, Heiligendamm was born as an elegant meeting place of the nobility and other members of high society. Most of the gorgeous Classicist buildings along the central promenade- which used to be private villas of the very wealthy- are still standing, and the stunning seaside manors make for an incredible walk along the beach. Sadly, the majority of these grand homes have fallen into disrepair. And while it's fascinating to peer in the windows and see the peeling wallpaper and cracked ceilings, with just a bit of imagination- and a lot of money- these places could sparkle again.

The houses' former beauty is clearly apparent, barely hidden under the surface of a depressing socialist whitewash (or more accurately, gray-wash). Their potential is evident however; I found myself yearning to solicit the help of investors and celebs to restore these magnificent buildings to the glamorous icons of their past. They could easily be renovated and transitioned into vacation rentals, condos, and private homes, provided the tourists continue to come- or perhaps if someone can convince Sharon Stone and Francis Ford Coppola to buy one of the properties for a nice little summer home!

For more info :: http://www.Kempinski-Heiligendamm.com

Don’t miss the Molli!

Although you might think she's a drag queen, the Molli is actually the oldest narrow-gauge railway on the Baltic coast; in other words, a small train. Put into service in 1886, the Molli links Bad Doberan with the resort towns of Kuehlungsborn and Heiligendamm.

Make sure to plan a few hours- or all day- to take the Molli from Heiligendamm (there's a station a mere five minute walk from the Kempinski) to Kuehlungsborn; here you'll find another charming little beach town complete with shops, restaurants, outdoor activities and spas. I recommend strolling a bit in the morning, grabbing a bite to eat at a caf?, and spending part of the afternoon either walking along the beach, bicycling through the nearby woodlands, or getting a massage at one of the local spas.

Dinner :: Friedrich Franz

I highly recommend dinner at Friedrich Franz, the gourmet restaurant at the Kempinski Grand. With only 30 seats, a meal here is a true experience in culinary perfection as Chef de Cuisine Ronny Siewert fuses traditional flavors with a French flair using the finest fresh ingredients from near and far. Aside from fabulous food, the FF offers a magnificent view of the Baltic Sea and features sparkling chandeliers and silk covered walls- a unique ambiance that has to be experienced to be fully appreciated.

Of course if you'd like to go a bit more casual, the Baltic Sushi Bar is also delish. In the afternoon you can enjoy your choice of various cake and ice cream specialties; at night, it's all Asian. Sushi, sashimi, Thai curries, and other Asian specialties, as well as lots of small dishes, make the perfect accompaniment to the live evening entertainment.

Rockin’ Rostock

Although Rostock has been around for eight centuries and had steadily grown into the largest and most powerful municipality in the region, somehow it never became the capital. One theory that locals use to explain this 'clear oversight' is that the Regents found the citizens of the city to be to emancipated and proud. Frankly, I'd tend to agree; it's very possible that they were simply jealous. A major port and university city, Rostock is the commercial and trading hub of the region, but it's also a major center for art and culture. (And that means gays!)

Architecture buffs will be in heaven; the buildings here tell the story of the city from its very beginning, to a fantastic future of incredibly modern design. Closely packed rows of decorated gable houses surround idyllic monasteries, old warehouses now hold seafaring museums and lofts (although some still store things), and the bustling marketplace just in front of the turreted town hall (with a beautiful Baroque fa?ade) will make you think you've stepped back in time- until the electric train comes through, zipping passengers around town.

Considering that I essentially walked from one side of the city to the other in one day, it's hard to believe that Rostock is so cosmopolitan. However, like many European cities (and other things), it's not so much the size that matters, but the attitude. Rostock is a university town, so there are a lot of young people- which means that the already progressive German attitude is even more pronounced here. Among the historical monuments, fantastic architecture and outdoor marketplace, you'll also find tons of gourmet restaurants (including vegetarian), chic bars and lounges, and more gay establishments than you can shake a stick at. In fact, the gay scene in Rostock puts other cities to shame- I wish we had such a diverse and open mix in Boston!

In fact, Rostock is 'so gay' that they have their own Gay City Map. Granted it's not a 200-page book, but among its pages are bars, restaurants, caf?s, clubs, resource centers, and saunas. Rostock even has its own Christopher Street Day parade and festival in mid-July. Kansas this isn't.

Looking for things to do? Simply take a walk- you'll be fascinated by the history all around you, as well as the modern architecture mixed-in. (The new theatre school is fantastic.) You'll also find plenty of fabulous shops, including fashion forward international brands (Diesel, etc.) as well as smaller designers offering goods you won't find anywhere else but should definitely scoop-up because you'll likely see them on the runway next season. Stop by one of the two tourism offices in town for the RostockCard, and get access to local transport, cultural events, and other activities for reduced prices.

For more info :: www.Rostock.de

Land Fleesensee

A spa lifestyle

Like most of the cities in northern Germany, leisure time in Land Fleesensee is all about health, wellness, and relaxation. Whether you want to play golf or tennis, ride a bike through the countryside and check out historical buildings, go sailing, spend all day at the spa, or simply plop yourself down under a tree and read, in Land Fleesensee, it's all about you. (As an added bonus, it was nice to stay somewhere where we could pronounce the name of the town!)

Aside from the spas and wellness centers, historical landmarks are also a big draw for the area. "A jewel in untouched nature," the Muritz National Park offers hundreds of miles of nature trails (all marked), as well as biking, swimming, bird-watching, and (non-motorized) boating. The nearby and incredibly well restored Church of Poppentin is a beautiful landmark, river cruises are both romantic and informative, and if you like European gardens you shouldn't miss the Neustrelitz, which include an 18th-Century Orangerie, English Neo-Gothic Palace Church, and the Neoclassic Hebe temple and Louise temple. (Unfortunately the Baroque castle was destroyed in 1945.)

More info :: www.Land-Fleesensee.de

Radisson SAS Fleesensee

Although we don't tend to think of Radissons as upscale properties, in Europe, they're at the top of the ladder, and the Radisson SAS Fleesensee is the perfect example. A luxury-class hotel and resort, this restored castle was built in 1842 and still retains its original charm and grandeur. The rooms are good-sized, the swimming pool and sauna deluxe, and of course the spa is divine. In fact, the resort actually has two spas; just to make sure you don't get bored!

Traveling gourmands will appreciate the chefs' creations at this resort, as they change daily- and always delight. One day you may find exotic dishes from the orient; the next, traditional regional cuisine. The one thing they have in common is their quality, taste, and 'wow factor.' I enjoyed tea and petits fours in the small sunroom off the lobby as well as dinner at Orangerie, which featured fresh local cuisine- and was excellent. Had I stayed another night I would have stepped-up a bit and tried the gourmet fine dining restaurant, Fr?d?rick.

For me, the highlight of Fleesensee was the spa lifestyle, which I eased into at the Radisson SAS' Golden Spa, before moving on to the bigger boys.

Fleesensee Spa :: Song of Spa

Put bluntly, the Fleesensee Spa is immense and all encompassing. I can pretty much guarantee that any spa treatment you want can be easily granted- along with many you've likely never heard of before, and a slew of other activities. Aside from the pampering you may be used to, the Fleesensee Spa also features a Waterworld (with 'adventure pool,' wellness bath, and slides), Saunaworld, fitness studio, solarium, and an endless list of treatments.

The Fleesensee Spa is the first to offer treatments based on a style and type of music, which you select based on your mood. And although I was a bit confused by the logic behind the philosophy of their 'rhythm of wellness' at first, after receiving my treatment I better understood the concept and was ready to embrace it. When you arrive, your host seats you in a modern bubble chair, then plays a selection of music samples- from very upbeat and modern to relaxing, with everything in between, including classical, and jazzy. You pick the music that best fits how you're feeling at that moment, and your treatment is designed to harmonize perfectly with your selection- and your mood!

What sounded a bit New Agey at first, turned out to be an incredibly relaxing experience, and my massage was one of the best I've had in a long time. If you're a fan of relaxation, I highly recommend it.

Robinsonclub

The second resort I visited was similar to a Club Med, but much nicer- and much more fun. Robinsonclub (pictured) is a resort chain that's popular in Germany, especially among families. This specific resort features myriad outdoor activities for every interest, plus- of course- a great wellness program, and even some indoor activities for those of you who aren't into getting dirty- including a nightly disco, game room, sports hall, and internet caf?.

Of course the resort has indoor and outdoor pools, two bars, a main restaurant and a few specialty-dining options, water sports, and plenty of beachfront where you can lie-out and do nothing. Specialty programs for kids and teenagers make it a big draw for families, although I managed to have a good time on my own!

Dorfhotel

Don't judge a book by its cover: I assure you that the Dorfhotel is much cuter than it sounds. Example: they have a petting zoo- replete with ducks, sheep, and pigs. How many American hotels can say that?

Like the nearby Robinson, the Dorfhotel is primarily geared towards families, and features plenty of activities for everyone. Aside from farm animals, the grounds of this resort hold a Mill Village, Fishing Village, Island Village, Historical Village, and (my favorite) a Pirate Village. Among them you'll find themed activities for kids, including playgrounds, a tree house, kiddy golf practice greens, and much more. They have a full program for children, youth, and teens- as well as activities for the grown-ups.

Yes, there's a spa, but there's also plenty of sports activities, bars and restaurants, and lots of chances to relax and lounge around.

Manors, mansions and castles

The Mecklenburger Seenplatte area, especially along the Mecklenburger Lakes, is famous for its many manor homes, mansions, and 'castles.' Most of the buildings have historical significance, and many have their own mysterious legends surrounding them as well. A drive into the area reveals long avenues lined with beautiful old oak, chestnut and lime trees, leading to stately homes surrounded by magnificent gardens and parks. It's not uncommon to see castles and manor homes in Gothic, Renaissance, English farmhouse, Classic, and Neo-Gothic-Romantic styles- all within a few miles!

Some of these manor homes have been turned into boutique hotels, including the 4-star Gutshaus Ludorf, where I stopped for lunch. (The website is in German only, but click on 'Kontakt' and send them an email- they'll get you all the info you need.) The manor has been completely restored and features beautiful brightly colored walls, immense fireplaces, tons of dark wood, and more character and charm than any small hotel in the country than I can remember. The owners, a fabulously sweet couple, have done an incredible job of modernizing the amenities and updating the interiors while retaining the architecturally significant style of this antique manor. Located only 15-minutes from Fleesensee, I would highly recommend this hotel.

I'd also recommend you take a peek in the smallest church I've ever seen, which happens to be a stone's throw from the Gutshaus Ludorf, just in front of the museum. The octagonal patron church is unique in northern Germany; built at the end of the 12th-century, it has the same floor plan as the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem.

Wedding anyone?

If you're looking for a place to throw a party (or get married), the Hotel Gutshof Woldzegarten is a perfect combination of quaint and stylish; a simple hotel with everything you need- including a giant restored barn that's large enough for the biggest wedding you could plan. The hotel sits in the middle of rolling hills and plains, and also offers spa treatments and outdoor activities galore.

Ich bin ein Berliner

Of course no trip to Germany would be complete without a stop in Berlin, and that's exactly what I did on my way home. Personally, I'd recommend starting with (at least) a few nights in the "gay party capitol of the world," then heading to the coast to relax and recover. Others like to save the best for last; that's up to you to decide.

Berlin is fantastic; the people are friendly, the museums diverse and plentiful, and the history incredible (and incredibly moving). This is definitely one of the most amazing- and emotionally powerful- cities that I've ever visited. With two world wars, the Holocaust, the wall, and the fact that the city was at the center of the Cold War, Germany has perhaps the most modern history- and the most emotionally powerful history- of western cities.

And while it's their history that's shaped Berliners, it's the future that they're focused on- and what a future it's going to be! To read more about my experience in Berlin, check the EDGE travel section.

PRACTICAL INFO

Getting there

Air Berlin is considered Germany's 'low cost carrier,' but based on my experience, it's just as good as- if not better than- most other full-price airlines. If you're planning a trip to Germany, I'd highly recommend them. In the US they fly out of Fort Myers and Miami, and as of April will also offer flights from Los Angeles and New York's JFK.

I flew in business class, which was fantastic. To start with, they've got an open bar, an extensive selection of audio and video entertainment options, and a fabulous toiletries package- the first one I actually kept to use again. I also kept the slippers, which were comfortable and stylish; when's the last time you said that about anything having to do with an airline?

Onboard, sleep came easily; the seats are wide, comfortable, and recline to nearly-flat. The food was excellent, with a choice of four main dishes including one veggie option- in case you forget to order a special meal ahead of time. (Not that I would ever forget to do that...). My favorite part of the flight? When the flawlessly made-up flight attendant in red leather gloves offered me a gorgeous little heart-shaped chocolate as we got off the plane upon arrival. Fabulous!

Going over you'll fly overnight, leaving the states in the evening and arriving in Germany the morning. Once you land, eat something soon, take it easy on the alcohol the first day, and get outside and get some sunshine to help reset your body clock.

The basics

The official language of Germany is... German- surprise! If the only German you know is Ich bin ein Berliner however, don't worry; most people you'll meet- including everyone working in tourism- speak excellent English. A nice bitte (bitt-uh; please) and danke (dahnk-uh; thank you) will also get you far.

The euro is the official currency of Germany, credit cards are accepted just as they are in the states, and you'll even find some places (hotels, popular tourist destinations, etc.) that take American dollars as well. Germany also happens to be one of the more reasonable European destinations- in fact, the average price of a hotel room in Berlin (Germany's largest city) is less than half the price of the average hotel room in Paris or London, making Germany a great choice for recession-era travel!

Getting around

Unless you plan on staying in one resort the entire time you're there, you'll need to rent a car. That way you can come and go as you please, and you'll have more freedom to check out local sites and see more of the countryside- which I highly recommend. Most major car rental companies operate in Germany and your US license will allow you to drive while you're visiting. Germans drive on the right side of the road, so you can worry about translating signs rather than which lane you're supposed to be in!

Trip Planning

When planning a trip to northeastern Germany, the best place to start is Destination Germany, as well as the regional sites listed below. From there you'll find plenty of information on the cities, towns, hotels and resorts, and activities that interest you, and even book hotels and flights (either directly or through links). Once you've gotten a good idea of which towns you want to visit and how long you want to stay in each, you can either book reservations on your own, or go to your travel agent who can help you put all the pieces together.

The Northern Realm of Germany is a truly remarkable and incredibly beautiful region, and one that should truly be experienced by everyone. I was a bit surprised to find myself feeling so contented, and also quite impressed with the culture, architecture and fascinating history of the region and everything in it. This is one place in Europe that I will definitely be returning to.

I went to Northeastern Germany to research the region in order to pass on my favorite finds to you and other EDGE readers. I was on a "scouting trip," and therefore didn't get to stay in any one place very long. When you plan your vacation you'll definitely want to stay at each hotel, resort, city and town for at least two nights, and in many cases three or four. This will allow you enough time to explore the area, see the sights, and enjoy yourself without feeling rushed.

Resources

Destination Germany, the National Tourism Board :: www.ComeToGermany.com

Mecklenburg-Vorpommern :: http://www.auf-nach-mv.de/

Fleesensee :: www.Fleesensee.de

Bad Doberan :: www.Bad-Doberan.de

Rostock :: www.Rostock.de

Air Berlin :: www.AirBerlin.com

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