June 21, 2010
Because You Cannes-Cannes-Cannes :: The Fabulous French Riviera
Jason Salzenstein READ TIME: 19 MIN.
Recently, Travel Editor Jason Salzenstein headed to Cannes, on the French Riviera, in the south of France, for a bit of R&R. More importantly, he went to scope-out the best hotels, restaurants, beaches, and good times for EDGE readers. What he discovered was that while the classic glamour of the city is still in full swing, Cannes has also been "growing up," with more options for every vacationer. He also discovered that just outside the city lay some brilliant and beautiful towns full of a life of their own.
It seems that Cannes is not only the perfect beach town, but also a great base-camp for some diverse day trips.
Check out his report on Cannes, and make sure to check back in coming weeks for the scoop on the surrounding towns of Antibes, Juan Les Pins, Grasse, and Mougins...
Yes, you Cannes
Cannes is known first and foremost for hosting the world famous Festival du Cannes once a year, which brings major stars from around the world to this beautiful town to have their pictures taken, walk the red carpet, and look fabulous. With a long history as the preferred getaway spot for European royalty, wealthy tycoons, and the glamorous party crowd, for the past ten years Cannes has been evolving, and now offers an incredibly diverse mix of vacation activities and opportunities that rival any major city- while still managing to hang on to the excitement, sensuality and buzz that the town is known for.
Whether you want to sail a boat around the harbor, hike nearby mountains, check out local history, art, and cultural offerings, take in the official activities of the town (i.e. wear next to nothing, shop all day, drink Champagne and simply look fabulous), or just lie on the beach and get a tan, you'll be happy here. Just outside of Cannes lie some incredibly diverse towns that are easy to get to, fun to explore, and make for incredible day- or weekend- trips (check back next week for three recommended excursions).
Cannes is much less expensive than Paris, and off-season (Nov-Feb) it's even more reasonable. If you do your research and book ahead- no matter the season- you can always save some dough on hotels and airfare; Air France (the only way to get there, if you ask me) is always offering special deals- just sign up for their eNewsletters to get the inside scoop.
60 years of film
Cannes is most famous for their annual film festival, which draws celebrities and media from around the world. Last year marked the 60th anniversary of the festival, which was celebrated throughout the year with screenings, special events, and more.
If you've never been to Cannes- or if it's been a few years- you should know that some fabulous transformations have taken place, and that the city keeps getting better and better. To be sure, the glitz and glamour is still there, but there's also a new, younger, sexier style that's recently been turning Cannes into the new hot spot on the Riviera. With this new "fabulosity," Cannes has been described as the French South Beach. Comparing Cannes to Miami's hottest neighborhood, however, doesn't do it justice; Cannes is much more exciting.
Being the French Riviera, Cannes will always be glamorous. And while the classic 4- and 4-star Luxe hotels (France's hotel rating system doesn't have 5-star) still reign supreme when it comes to service, style, and luxury, the younger, trendier crowd that's now making Cannes the new hot-spot is demanding more contemporary, modern boutique hotels and services, and the industry is responding in a big way.
Next :: Where to sleep
Sleep
Hotel 3-14
The Hotel 3-14 is fabulous; the design is modern, with little 'warm touches' that keep it from being too sterile. Decorated in a global style, each of the seven floors of the hotel represents a different continent; from the lighting in the hallways to the decor in the rooms, the feeling is refined, comfortable, and whimsical without being campy. Public spaces are also multi-culturally inspired, featuring "disco bowl" tables, modern Indian-inspired lobby (pictured), and blend of textures and fabrics that keeps it interesting, fresh, and fun.
Speaking of fun, the hotel definitely encourages it- especially if said fun is of the romantic nature. Along with your standard sodas, liquors, and snacks, in-room mini bars are also stocked with "love kits," a mood-enhancing CD, and a couple of "marital aids" for both his and her pleasure. Up on the rooftop you'll find one of the most unique and beautiful pools in the city. Floating on your back surrounded by palm trees and stone, you'd never know you were in the middle of downtown. The terrace also features a few little 'hideaway cays' where cohabitants can sneak away and "mingle" (and remember, this is France so there's no need to worry about being a same-sex couple... or about being shy!). Make sure you don't miss the Jacuzzi either- it's slightly secluded and overlooks the Carlton hotel and the beach.
Hotel Renoir
The Hotel Renoir sits just two blocks from one of Cannes' best shopping street, Les Antibes, which makes it nearly perfect in my book!
Le Cavendish
Villa Garbo :: Now open!
Eat
I'm always a bit tired on the first day I arrive in France, so for dinner upon arrival, I took a short stroll down to the beach where the Hotel 3-14 has a fabulous little fusion-style restaurant heavy on fresh fruits and vegetables, and famous for their seafood. Being that I was in France, of course, I ate too much... and I don't regret it a bit.
Worth it for the view alone...
Cannes is full of amazing views, but if you're looking for the absolute best view in the city, the panoramic scene from the gastronomic restaurant Le M�diterran�e at the
C. Beach
Cannes is all about the beaches, and dining at one of the many restaurants, caf�s and bars that fall between Le Croisette and the water is de rigueur. After a trip out to a nearby island, having worked up an appetite climbing up and down the stairs of an old monastery, we were happy to get back to the mainland and picked C Beach for lunch. Wondering what the 'C' stood for (plenty of scandalous suggestions were offered), we sat down, indulged in the food, stared at the beautiful waiters, and were so happy with our choice of restaurants that we no longer cared.
Apparently to be a waiter in Cannes you need to be hot- or maybe it just comes with being French. At any rate, the food was also fabulous. The restaurant featured beautiful fresh fish, local specialties, and a pesto primavera that had me wishing I could return for dinner. I also appreciated the fact that being right on the beach, you can simply leave the water, dry off a bit, and sit down for lunch.
Or, you can simply sit and watch the other boys coming in from the water!
L'Auberge Provencale
If you're looking for authentic traditional French charm, you won't do better than
In my travels across France, I've certainly come across my share of old restaurants, shops, etc. that seemed to have survived solely on the fact that they were old and historic- this was clearly not the case with L'Auberge Provencale.
Serving traditional gastronomic French food, the restaurant relies on the talent of the chef and fabulous service rather than gimmicks, "surprises" or other craziness. This simple fact- as well as the fabulous food- has kept both locals and out-of-towners coming back for years.
And although it's not exactly French, I had the best fresh ricotta ravioli that I've ever had in my life.
The Palm Beach
If you've seen coverage of nightlife in Cannes on TV or in the movies recently, you've seen
Dinner was divine, although sitting at a white linen-covered, candle-lit table on the beach in Cannes, how could it not be? The four-course meal was fabulous, filling, and reasonably priced. A wait staff that was extremely easy on the eyes certainly didn't hurt either. The icing on the cake was the fact that after dinner we simply walked up a dozen or so glamorous white stairs to the outdoor club and continued the party until the wee hours of the morning...
La Palme d'Or
For a truly unforgettable experience, break out the credit card and go full-tilt at La Palme d'Or, the Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant at the Hotel Martinez. A multi-course meal should last at least two hours, giving you time to take in the incredible view of the bay, fantastically amazing cuisine, and service that's second to none. The food is inventive, daring and delicious, with a menu that changes with the seasons.
More contemporary options
Alongside the classic French options, Cannes has plenty of trendy, hip restaurants that cater to a younger crowd. On the higher end is Tantra, a restaurant and club featuring gastronomic fusion cuisine in a sensual Asiatic setting. (Don't miss the loft bar upstairs.)
Continuing the "Asiatic" theme (albeit in a completely un-PC way that can only be seen- and was hilarious- in France), Chink's (would I make this up?) offers modern Thai food in its intimate bar, lounge and restaurant, with resident DJ and outdoor terrace. It's located near the old port, and if you arrive and simply can't handle the name- or the logo- there are plenty of other casual options nearby.
Fabulous Days...
At least one morning, start your day with a leisurely walk along the beach on le Croisette, ending in the old part of the city; in about a dozen blocks, you'll get to see a beautiful "history" of the city. Once you arrive at this neighborhood- Le Suquet- there's plenty to do. We began by exploring Notre-Dame de l'Esperance, which- like much of the rest of the surrounding area- was built in the 16th and 17th centuries. We saw a building that (allegedly!) housed the man in the iron mask for a bit, before he was banished to the island just off the coast (more on that in a bit); it seems the only one who truly believes that story, however, is the man who lived there.
My favorite part of the old city however, was the fresh market. Every day but Monday, locals gather to sell everything from fresh produce, to flowers (three dozen roses for less than $15!), to honey, jams, cheese and desserts. The selection is amazing, the produce gorgeous, and the best part is knowing that it's all organic and comes from just down the street (ok, neighboring villages and farms, but still...). I highly recommend taking a stroll through the market, picking up some things for dinner, and then making a stop at a wine store for an easy, simple, and delicious meal.
Speaking of wine, we happened upon Cave Sunshine, the oldest wine store in the city- in business since 1862. Set in a small corner store, they offer exclusively French wines, with a slight preference for regional selections, including some incredible ros�s, which of course we had to try- a few times- just to make sure they were ok. Aside from ros�s, "Sunshine" has a great selection of Champagne, and a young man (pictured) named Thomas who's not only easy on the eyes, but more than willing to help out a weary traveler... with some pairing suggestions, of course.
Ste. Marguerite
After lunch we hopped on a boat for a short ride to the island of Ste. Margeurite, home of Fort Royal, and the cell that held the legendary Man in the Iron Mask. Try as we might however, we simply couldn't find Leonardo, so decided to walk around the island exploring the botanical paths, and Museum of the Sea. We ended the afternoon feeling more than a bit Kennedy-esque; sunning ourselves on the beach, waving to passing yachts, and taking occasional dips in the crystalline water to cool off.
Monks, mass, and wine
Speaking of islands, while I'm not big on the Catholic church, I do appreciate the occasional historic monastery, and there's something about monks that seem to be very, well, let's just say intriguing. In that spirit- and being that it was Sunday- we decided to go to the Isle Ste. Honorat, just off the coast of Cannes and attend a mass given by the Cistercian monks at the
