Whiskey 102 :: The World of Whiskey

Whiskey making has been around since the Dark ages and is produced in every country. It's become a profitable business venture for many and an excellent way to show their ties to traditional whisky making. Australia makes a kick ass single malt from their Tasmania distillery on the island of Hobart called Sullivans Cove. In Sweden, the Mackmyra distillery produces an award winning whisky (called Preludium 01) that has a hint of apples and lemons and the scent of freshly cut wood. Since its arrival on the market back in March of 2006, bottles of Preludium 01 were flying off the shelves like a cure for PMS or male pattern baldness. New Zealand's Willowbank Distillery in Dunedin makes Milford Single Malt Whisky. Their whisky comes in 10, 12 and 15-year batches and reflects the traditional (Scottish) whisky making process. And of course, whiskey is made right here, in the good old U.S. of A.

America

Distilleries with names like Jack Daniels, Maker's Mark, Woodford Reserve and Johnnie Walker create a variety of whiskies that reflect the melting pot that makes up our country. As one of the biggest consumers of whiskey, the U.S. has numerous distilleries that generate a tasteful array of whiskies.

The main types of American whiskies are:

Bourbon- this uses a mixture of grains (at least 51 % corn) and can blended with other whiskies before the final product is bottled. It must be aged for at least two years in charred new oak barrels.

Rye- The process uses more than 50% rye in the fermentation process.

Corn- Uses 100% corn has no real taste or flavor. It is used as a blend for other whiskies.

Tennessee Sour Mash- Uses a mixture of grains but is filtered through charcoal.

Each American whiskey has a particular twist that separates it from the rest. Bourbon is made from three different grains in different amounts and combination though wheat and rye are never used together. These processes are based on the traditional ways of whisky making and are never violated. If you've ever tasted bourbon you will notice a hint of vanilla, this comes from the charred oak barrels. American White Oak contains vanillins and this flavor as well as the amber color is infused in the whiskey during the charring process. After a barrel is used to mature American whiskey it gets a second life storing whiskey in any number of whisky making countries like Ireland or Scotland.

The making of straight bourbon involves using 50 % corn in the fermentation process and not blending it with other whiskies. If a whiskey is not blended with other whiskies (corn or rye) and is bottled at more than 100 Proof then its called Kentucky Straight Bourbon and can carry the quality statement, "Bottled in Bond."

Maker's Mark Straight Kentucky Bourbon has been around since 1840. They create their whisky with the best ingredients know to man: Iron-free limestone spring water, yellow corn and red winter wheat, and naturally malted barley. The ingredients are blended in a slow pressure free cooking style to build diverse flavor. The old school fermentation process--they use cypress wood planks--avoids polluting their product. It's twice distilled to preserve the smooth grain characteristics and produce one of the best American whiskies.

Tennessee whiskey production follows the same rules as bourbon except for one thing, The Lincoln County Process. This process requires whiskey to be filtered through 10 feet of maple charcoal and takes about ten days to complete. The Lincoln County process removes any minerals or oils before it is placed in oak casks for maturation. The "sour mash" in Tennessee Sour Mash comes from the yeast they use, much like making sourdough bread. The old yeast is used to create unique flavors in the batch process.

Old # 7 (Jack Daniel's) is the best example of Tennessee Sour Mash Whiskey. The Jack Daniel's whiskey making process has changed slightly, reducing the proof from 86% to 80%, but they still manage to create a great whiskey. The Jack Daniel's family of whiskies has grown to include Single Barrel, Gentleman Jack and of course Green Label. In my humble opinion Green Label Jack is one of the smoothest American whiskies out there. The Jack Daniel's distillery, located at 280 Lynchburg Highway (Lynchburg, Tennessee) is part of the American Whiskey Trail because of its pivotal part in early American culture and history.

Scotchland

As it turned out all I knew about whiskey could fill a book... a matchbook. I pictured slack-jawed, inbred hick-a-billies brewing the stuff in squat white jugs with big black X's on them. I was completely ignorant of the history and majesty of whiskey; below is my best attempt to educate and enlighten the world to the true meaning of whiskey.

As you would guess Whisky is woven into the historic fabric of Scotland as well. Their Whisky Trail runs just about seventy miles along the River Spey, beginning in the Highland town of Grampian and continuing through the picturesque northeastern foothills of Scotland. This trail includes tours of the eight major whiskey distilleries such as the Bowmore Distillery, the Glen Grant Distillery, and The Glenlivet Distillery. For more on the Whisky Trail of Scotland check out:
http://www.scotland.com/explore/scottish-whisky-trail/

If you are a true connoisseur of whisky, the name Glenlivet should make your mouth water like Courtney Love staring at a bowl of OxyContin. The Glenlivet Distillery uses fresh spring water, copper stills and oak casks to produce what can only be called Heaven in a Bottle (well, that's what my Aunt Mindy used to call it). Actually, their official nickname is "The Real Stuff," as dubbed by 19th Century Scottish nobles. Their 12, 15 and 18 year old single malt Scotch whiskies have been clouding minds, enthralling taste buds, and winning awards long before Jack was a gleam in Mr. Daniels' eye.

If you are talking about Scotch whisky or Scotch, you are talking about a broad range of whiskies. All Scotch goes through same painstaking procedures as laid down by the Scotch Whisky Order of 1990 (UK). According to the law:

1. It must be distilled in a Scottish distillery from water and malted barley.

2. It must be aged in Scotland for at least three years in oak barrels.

3. It must be distilled to an alcoholic strength of less than 94.8% by volume.

4. It must not contain any added substance other than water and caramel colour.

These strict distilling principles are key in making Scotch whisky; the term "Scotch whisky" is protected by international law and only whiskies from Scotland can use it. (This law protects Irish and Canadian whiskies as well). Once all the above conditions have been met the recipes are altered ever so slightly to create the various types of Scotch.

There are five types of Scotch whisky.

Single Malt-100% malted barley whisky from ONE distillery.

Vatted Malt-created by mixing single malt whiskies from more than one distillery.

Blended grain-created by mixing grain whisky from more than one distillery.

Single grain-grain whisky from one distillery.

Blended Scotch whisky-a mixture of single malt and grain whiskies from multiple distilleries.

Even the climate of the country plays an important part of what goes in and comes out of the final barrel. Whisky made in the Lowlands of Scotland is completely different than whisky made in Canada. The breakdown goes further than that; whisky made in each one of Scotland's major regions differs ever so slightly. The geographical make up of each region gives the whiskies of Scotland a distinctive identity. That's why the whiskies are not only named by the distillery but by the region they are born from.

Quality and tradition are the cornerstones of whisky making at the Kilmarnock distillery in Scotland. The family of Johnnie Walker whiskies (Blue, Gold, Black and Red) has won more awards than all three Lord of the Rings movies combined. The tradition of making great whisky and the style of being innovative has kept Johnnie Walker ahead of the game. A short time ago a new member of the J.W. family was introduced to the public: Johnnie Walker Swing.

Swing (a Blended Scotch Whisky) is named after the bottle, which has a rounded bottom. The bottle is a throwback to the days when high society sailors drank from bottles that would swing and sway with the ever-moving ocean. After trying a few shots of Swing I felt like I was aboard the S.S. Minnow. It has a charming taste that coats the tongue and goes down like a forest fire... but in a good way.

The Northern Highlands of Scotland generate a sweeter whisky that is easy on the taste buds. Glenmorangie distillery makes some of the best (and sweetest) single malt whisky in the Northern Highlands. The Eastern Highlands make a sweet whisky as well but their flavor is enhanced (or enchanted) by the addition of a smoky fruitiness, like a rich peach or apple pie that has been slow cooked over a roaring open cedar fueled flame.

Another sweet whisky region is Speyside. The distilleries of Speyside add a subtle taste of honey to their product. The Lowland whiskies are lighter and stick to an unvarying flavor formula that is found throughout the region. The salt of the sea and the rich peat bogs help make the Islay Malts whiskies the most pungent. The number of distilleries in Campbeltown may have diminished over the years but those still in operation like the Springbank distillery (family owned since 1837) manage to create a whisky that combines the best of the Highland sweetness and the aromas of the Lowlands.

One of the more recent regional additions to Scotland's whisky making culture is Perthshire, which borders the Lowlands and is making a name for itself with whiskies that have a clean and fruity taste. The regions are akin to a family of brothers: Each one has its own distinct style, personality and history.

The One and Only of Wales

From Scotland, we move to the lowlands of Wales to sample the distinct flavors of Penderyn Single Malt Welsh Whisky. Penderyn is the best example of Welsh whisky; in fact it is the only whisky produced in Wales. The Welsh started making whisky in the 4th century and stopped in 1984 for undisclosed reasons. In 2000 the Welsh Whisky Company started production of Penderyn.

Attention to every detail is crucial in the Welsh whisky-making process. The water used to make "Welsh Gold" (Aur Cymru in the original Welsh) is naturally filtered, first though peat, then red sandstone, and finally lime stone caverns. This process takes place directly below the distillery; delivering naturally filtered water while maintaining the freshness required to make the finest (and only) Welsh whisky. The barrels used for the maturation process are white oak bourbon barrels imported from Kentucky and Tennessee, and later Madeira wine casks. This combination gives Penderyn a peaty, timberseque essence. After sampling a bottle I considered myself lucky. The color was that of sunflowers with a depth and clarity I had never seen before. Remember, I used to think that Jack Daniels was the best whiskey money could buy.

Ireland

Unlike Welsh whisky, which manufactures only two barrels a day, Irish whiskey flows from three distilleries: Midleton, Bushmills, and Cooley, of which only Cooley's is Irish owned. Irish Whiskey is a grain whiskey that comes in Single Malt, Pure Pot and Blended. Each one relies upon a single trait for its uniqueness. The Single Malt is made with 100% malted barley. The Pure Pot is a mixture of malted and unmalted barley, while the Blended whiskey uses malted barley and corn (or wheat). While wood is the abundant flavor of Welsh whisky, Irish whisky gets its sweet smoothness from the absence of peat, which is never used in the Irish distilling process.

Throughout the world whiskey connoisseurs have favored Bushmills Original Premium Irish Whiskey for its longstanding oath to excellence and great taste. Aside from receiving the first license to distill whiskey in the 17th century, Bushmills boasts an authentic flavor that proudly represents a mixture of traditional Irish Whiskey making along with the best in modern day production equipment. Bushmills is aged in American Bourbon and Spanish Oloroso sherry casks for five years. This process adds color and a distinctive aromatic makeup that sets it apart from the rest of the class.

O Canada

Ladies and gentleman, grab your curling brooms and Celine Dion CDs because we are off to Canada to sample Canadian whisky. By legal definition, Canadian whisky must be aged for at least three years in white oak barrels. Most casual whisky drinkers refer to Canadian whisky as rye whisky even though the majority of grains used are corn and barley. Also, most whiskies made North of the Border are blended multiple grain whiskies. However, Canada turns out a single malt whisky. Distilled in Glenville, Nova Scotia on Cape Breton Island, the Glenora distillery has been kicking it old school by producing unblended malt whisky. Which means they follow the traditional Scottish style of whisky making.

The best example of blended Canadian Whisky is Crown Royal, made in Gimli, Manitoba. Crown Royal uses water from glacier fed rivers and cereal grains. Its flavor is rich with the hint of vanilla and has the staying power of the Energizer bunny. Crown Royal recently came out with an ultra premium whisky called XR. This newest member to the Crown Royal family is smoother than silk sheets and possesses a stunning vanilla flavor with just a hint of toffee and spice. If you are ever in Canada and have one hundred and fifty bucks to spare get yourself a bottle: I promise you won't be disappointed.

Some whiskey makers have used the same recipe since day one; other distillers have set fire to the old ways in favor of a more modern approach. Whether you tweak the distillation process, use rye instead of malted barley during fermentation or choose to barrel it for ten years, it all makes a difference.

A long time ago my friend Mitch compared turning water and grains into whiskey to alchemy. At the time I shook my head and agreed but now that I've gained a clearer understand of what whiskey is and how it's made, I have to disagree. Actually, I'm a little angry at the comparison; alchemy is faux science, after all. Whiskey making involves so many different branches of science it almost boggles the mind that anybody in the Middle Ages got the formula. To make whiskey, good whiskey, you need to know a little chemistry, some geography, and a hint of biology, heat exchange and conductivity calculations, and have a keen understanding of geology. Those are just a few of the sciences that go into a bottle of whiskey. Next time you order a whiskey take everything I've mentioned into consideration. Think about what flavors make your mouth water and what scents excites your nostrils. Do you enjoy the smell of wood and crave the aftertaste of fruit? Do you want something bitter in your glass? How much are you willing to pay? Once you answer those questions you'll be ready to order.