Is Vanilla the New Salt? 'Vanilla Table' May Think So

Laura Grimmer READ TIME: 5 MIN.

"Vanilla Table" (Jacqui Small LLP, $40), the elegant cookbook by ballerina-turned-chef Natasha MacAller, could change the way you think about vanilla.

The dessert recipes burst with vanilla in all guises, but it's the savory recipes that will make you take another sniff at vanilla. From the vanilla seed-infused Herb Cheese Spread and Vanilla-Caramelized Onions atop the Smoked Salmon Tartine, to the warm, mellow flavors of the Butternut Squash Soup Shooters imbibed with vanilla flavor, you'll be compelled to try cooking with the spice instead of baking with it.

In addition to the breadth of recipes and the excellent fish dishes, there are two things in particular that I love about "Vanilla Table."

First, Ms. MacAller includes detailed instructions on delectable garnishes for nearly every dish. It shows a thorough vision of each recipe and a welcome source of inspiration. For many, like the Ota Ika Ceviche, the accompanying Coconut Black Sesame Wafer is something you'll no doubt find a use for in another dish.

Second, the ingredients are listed by measure (e.g., 3 Tablespoons packed brown sugar) and by weight or volume (50 g. or 1� oz.). Being able to weigh things - even for savory dishes but especially for sweets - can make your life in the kitchen so much easier. Take advantage of this feature to eliminate questions like "How much butternut squash do I really need when the recipe calls for one squash?" (The answer is 1 kg or 2 lbs.).

Fennel KeriKeri Orange Salad

Kerikeri, in the Bay of Islands, New Zealand, grows acres of oranges, kiwi fruit, lemons and, most recently, olives. This welcoming orchard town has been growing Kerikeri oranges-a full-flavoured Valencia variety-since the 1920s.

SERVES 4

Roasted Shallots
3 shallots
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Roasted Shallot Vinaigrette
1 or 2 tsp garlic cloves, caramelized
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
2 Tbsp orange vincotto or aged balsamic vinegar
2 tsp orange zest
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1/2 tsp vanilla paste
sea salt and cracked pepper to taste

Salad
8 slices pancetta or bresaola, thinly sliced
4 cups mixed baby lettuces 4 cups
1/2 cup fresh basil leaves, torn 1/2 cup
2 med fennel bulbs, with bruised or brown outside leaves discarded
1/4 cup chives or green/spring onions, minced 1/4 cup
2 oranges, preferably unsprayed, peeled, seeded and cut into segments

Roasted shallots
Preheat oven to 350�F/180�C. Trim shallot root ends,^ leaving papery skin attached. Place in a small foil-lined baking tin and drizzle with olive oil. Roast in oven about 30-35 minutes or until soft when pierced with the tip of a knife and golden brown.

Roasted shallot vinaigrette
In a small bowl, peel then mash the roasted shallots and caramelized garlic to make a smooth paste.

Whisk in remaining ingredients and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Cover and chill until ready to use.

Salad
Layer meat slices together then cut into small squares. Over medium heat add the pancetta to a dry pan and fry until crispy. Drain on paper towels and set aside.
Rinse and drain salad leaves and basil.

Cut fennel bulbs in half lengthwise. Remove and discard core and shave fennel into wafer-thin slices.

Toss fennel, greens, basil and chives or spring onions together. Add orange segments and drizzle dressing over all. Add pancetta just before serving and toss salad to lightly coat with the dressing.

Serve immediately.

Espresso Brownie Bites

The perfect mocha blend. For a gluten-free option, replace the flour with an equal amount of gluten free flour.

1 Tbsp cocoa powder for coating baking tray/cookie sheet
2 1/2 cups dark good-quality chocolate such as Sharffen Berger, Lindt or Callebaut, chopped (425 g / 15 oz)
1 cup unsalted butter (225 g / 8 oz)
4 eggs, large, lightly beaten
1 cup + 2 Tbsp white sugar (225 g / 8 oz)
2 Tbsp pure vanilla extract (30 ml / 1 fl oz)
1 Tbsp coffee extract (15 ml / � fl oz)
3/4 cup plain/all-purpose flour (100 g / 3� oz)
1/2 tsp fine sea salt
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 cup cocoa powder (25 g / 1 oz)
1/3 cup cocoa nibs to finish (40 g / 1� oz)

Preheat oven to 180�C/350�F/gas mark 4 (160�C/325�F fan). Butter a 20 x 30 cm/8 x 12 in baking tin/pan and dust with sifted cocoa powder.

In a small bowl set over barely simmering water, melt chocolate and butter. Place bowl on a towel (to catch water droplets), stir chocolate until smooth, then cool to lukewarm.

Whisk eggs, sugar, vanilla and coffee extract in a large bowl.

In another bowl, sift together flour, salt, baking powder and cocoa powder.

Fold egg mixture into chocolate, combining well. Add dry ingredients last and mix well. Pour into prepared tin/pan, smoothing the top. Sprinkle cocoa nibs over top. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove tin/pan from oven, hold level at waist height above countertop and drop on the counter about 5 times to release any air bubbles. Bake an additional 8 minutes. Cool completely before cutting into bite-sized squares.

Recipes provided by "Vanilla Table." Click here to purchase online.


by Laura Grimmer

Laura Grimmer is a private chef and trained sommelier based in New York.

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