Fireworks Abound in Provincetown

JC Alvarez READ TIME: 7 MIN.

The more things change, the more grateful we are that some things stay the same - especially when considering a summertime resort, where relaxation is key. In today's world of stronger, faster, harder and louder, there is still one place that hasn't succumbed to that need for speed: Provincetown.

Every summer the sleepy village of P-Town, at the tip of Cape Cod, sees its population grow to 10 times its off-season size as tourists from all corners come to enjoy its natural beauty, celebrated art scene, great dining, vibrant commercial center and legendary LGBT scene that's been evolving for nearly a century.

Yet the beauty of Provincetown is that while there's a bustling scene along Commercial Street, where trendy restaurants and shops sit next to old-school clam shacks and T-shirt shops, you can escape it in a matter of minutes by heading out to the beaches and dunes, where solitude is easily achieved. It is simply unique in offering the best of both worlds.

As the proprietor of the landmark Crown & Anchor Inn, Rick Murray has helped shape Provincetown's resort and nightlife scene in the new millennium. Murray and his partner, William Dougal, became part of Provincetown's landscape in the late 1980s. They have since grown multiple businesses and turned the Crown into one of the town's most versatile entertainment complexes. "We certainly didn't know what we were getting into - not right away," Murray admitted about launching the Crown & Anchor.

Providing New England-style comfort to its guests, visitors to the Crown & Anchor can comfortably rent a suite with a spectacular oceanfront view or take in some rays next to the pool. The complex offers something for everyone: a dance club; a video bar and an old-school leather bar. For happy hour, you can expect the piano bar in the Cabaret to offer a relaxing and refreshing distraction.

It also offers high-end entertainment. Murray has dedicated himself to booking top-tier talents - from comedians Kate Clinton and Kathy Griffin to Broadway notables who have made their P-Town debuts on the Crown's stage, something he sees as part of the property's tradition. "The reputation of the Crown has preceded that of myself and Bill," Murray insisted. "It's been here since the 1850s and has always been iconic."

In the past few years, Murray has brought in artists ranging from Carol Channing to Miss Coco Peru and Liza herself (booked with Alan Cumming). Unfortunately, Ms. Minnelli hurt her back three days prior to the show, but Alan Cumming showed up and headlined a show all on his own. This summer Murray has one of the best line-ups to date, including Jennifer Holliday, Bernadette Peters, Jeremy Jordan, Linda Lavin, Billy Porter, Shirley Jones and Kathy Griffin.

For the dance-floor diehard, there's the Paramount Nightclub dedicated to entertaining even the most finicky circuit queen with some of the biggest names on the DJ circuit. But the space isn't just for the boys: the Crown & Anchor's premier space has hosted special events tailored to attract a wide audience, including very special Memorial Day Weekend parties geared for the ladies. Adjacent to the Paramount is Wave Video Bar, where VJ Tom Yaz offers the most eclectic and fun-inducing programming imaginable.

The Crown & Anchor is also home to the Central House, now under the guidance of well-established "celebrity chef," Executive Chef Michele Ragussis. "She's been such a plus for us to have her," said Murray. He credits Michele with revolutionizing the dining experience at the Crown.

For many LGBTs on the East Coast (especially those in Boston and New York), the big debate is the differences between Provincetown and Fire Island, specifically Fire Island's gay enclaves of Cherry Grove and the Pines. Some prefer the privacy and lack of street life that Fire Island offers, but Murray's opinion differs.

"The unique thing about Provincetown is that we have so much more to offer than Fire Island," said Murray. The entrepreneur added with scant hesitation, "Fire Island is mostly private homes and private parties, where in Provincetown you have dozens of great restaurants, art galleries and nightlife - there's just a lot more to do." The largely historical fishing and whaling community has welcomed an LGBT presence as far back as the 1930s. It served as a vastly trafficked port of call and always attracted the artistic and theatrically inclined.

"We have one of the most naturally protected harbors on the East Coast," added Murray, "so the history here goes way back." The shores of Provincetown are also visited year-round and accessed by ferry as well as its own dedicated airport, which makes it internationally appealing and a distinct American vacation attraction for Europeans. "It's also a beautiful spot to be in the wintertime, especially if you enjoy the solitude."

Come July Fourth, the Crown & Anchor presents Independence 2015, transforming P-Town into an unparalleled circuit destination. From Thursday, July 2, to Friday, July 10, the beachfront will become the Freedom Beach Party and headline one of the circuit's most sought-after headliners. DJ Roland Belmares (of White Party and Winter Party fame) returns to Provincetown (and the Crown & Anchor) for a premier turn at the tables Wednesday, July 8.

"Last year we started the first beach party," Murray elaborated on the genesis of what's now become Provincetown's big summer circuit ticket, "... and we're doing it again this year!" Based on Miami's widely attended Winter Party beach spectacle, Murray anticipates a great turnout for the new P-Town tradition. "We're flying in DJs from Miami, Berlin, Brazil, New York and LA that will be coming in to play for the week."

Murray insists that the Independence 2015 weekend was not created to compete with the barrage of circuit and music festivals that pepper the seasonal event calendar. "Our town is pretty much the opposite of all the other really big circuit events," he says. Citing the cosmopolitan essence of South Beach, which hosts the aforementioned White Party, Murray also notes that his party takes place in the middle of summer, when there are fewer big music events.

Independence Day Weekend in Provincetown will certainly find its place on the annual summer circuit calendar. We asked Murray if the decision to host such a huge dance party had any relevance in keeping pace with the broadening appeal of the music festival scene.

"The pace here is a little less frenetic as compared to somewhere like New York, Miami or LA," answered Murray. (P-Town's bars and clubs close at 1 a.m., at which time the place to hang is Spiritus Pizza on Commercial Street.)

"We draw so many people from all over the world - there really is no place like Provincetown." It's one of the more straight-friendly destinations on the gay getaway map that also fully embraces the changing face of our community - and that is still willing to party!

The Crown & Anchor presents "Independence 2015" from Thursday, July 2, to Friday, July 10, with internationally renowned DJ Roland Belmares taking over the sandy beaches on Wednesday, July 8. The Paramount Nightclub's dance floor will host the premier sounds of Provincetown's own DJ Racine, as well as DJ Phil B, New York City favorite Eddy Martinez, and more. An appearance from Tony- and Grammy-winning artist Jennifer Holliday is enough to mark this special occasion.


by JC Alvarez

Native New Yorker JC Alvarez is a pop-culture enthusiast and the nightlife chronicler of the club scene and its celebrity denizens from coast-to-coast. He is the on-air host of the nationally syndicated radio show "Out Loud & Live!" and is also on the panel of the local-access talk show "Talking About".

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